Makeup Basics: Contouring and Colouring for Your Eye Type

Monday, January 24, 2011

So I've decided to start a little 'Makeup Basics' series for anyone who is new to makeup and interested in learning some basics.

Today, I'm writing about the proper shading and contouring for your particular eye type.

The 'types of eyes' can be divided into the following categories - close-set, wide set, deep-set, hooded, almond, down turned, and protruding.

Close set: The width between the eyes is narrower than the width of one eye.

For close set eyes, you want to 'extend' the eye by using dark colours on the outer part of your eye.
Use light colours on the inner part of your eye.

Thicken the eyeliner toward the outer corners of your eyes

After applying your usual coats of mascara, apply another coat, focusing it only on the outer lashes.

Wide set: Wide area in between eyes.
Use a medium to dark eyeshadow on the inner eye area, extending slightly towards the bridge of the nose.

Thicken the eyeliner slightly, towards the inner corners of the eye.

Deep set: Eyes are set deep into the socket, with a small mobile lid.
Use a light, bright colour on your lid. Pinks are great because they tend to make the eye stand out.
Apply darker colours above the crease, and blend out and upwards.
On your crease, apply pale to medium bright colours to bring it out.
Try not to apply colours that are too bright/frosty-textured/shimmery to the brow bone, as this will only exaggerate the difference in depth.

Eyeliner and mascara can be applied as per usual.

Hooded: Skin hanging over the crease
Use matte colours, in medium to dark shades.
Focus the darker shades in your crease area to contour.
Apply a pastel highlight directly under your eyebrows.
Use frost textures on your lid, directly above your lashline.

Eyeliner should be kept thin.
Wing the eyeliner out at the outer corners of your eyes.

Curl your eyelashes, and apply waterproof mascara to retain the curl for longer.
For special events, you might want to try false eyelashes to try and open up the eye area.

Another option you might want to consider is eyelid tape. Double-sided eyelid tape or eyelid glue can be a good temporary fix for a special occasion.

Almond: Normal proportions.
Any eye technique works for this eye, since proportion-wise, it is considered the 'perfect' shape.

Down turned: Outer corners of eyes are at a lower position than the inner corners.
Any colour or texture is fine for this eye, but the eyeshadow should be shaded upwards, and then outwards.
Dark eyeshadow should be blended into the crease only on the outer 2/3rds of the eye.
The cat-eyeshadow-shape is ideal for this type of eye.
Avoid applying eyeshadow to the bottom lid.

Apply eyeliner onto the upper lashline only.
Keep the eyeliner close to your lashline.

Curl your eyelashes and apply waterproof mascara to retain the curl. This helps open up the eyes.

Protruding: Bulging eyes
Use medium to dark, matte colours in the areas shown in the picture above.
Use a pastel colour on the brow bone to lighten and lift the eye.
When choosing eyeshadow colours, avoid pinks, because they tend to make the eyes look more puffy.


Asian eyes: Tend to be shallow and small, sometimes without double eyelids

Eyeshadow: 2 different techniques can be used here - you should try both and decide which works for you:

  1. Divide your eyelid into half, vertically. Apply a light, bright shadow on the inner half, and then a darker tone on the outer half. Highlight your brow bone with a light, reflective colour.
  2. This approach involves graduating the eyeshadow colours starting from the darkest colour near the lashline and then lighter colours approaching the brow bone.
Eyeliner is useful for defining eye. Asian eyes tend to be small so eyeliner can be a very useful tool for making eyes appear larger.
Start with a thin line near the inner corners and gradually make it thicker as you reach the outer corners.
If you want to line your bottom lids, draw the line from the outer corners to the centre of your bottom lid. Lining your eyes all the way will make your eyes appear smaller.

Double eyelid tape is also great for those with monolids, who want to create a double-eyelid.

Round eyes
To elongate the eye, apply your dark shade onto the center of your lid and blend into the crease.
Extend that shade to the outer corner of your eye, then sweep halfway onto your lower lid, creating a 'cat eye'.
Apply a highlight colour onto the inner corners of your eye.

I hope this helps!

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